Cliff-Walking in Sumba

Day 14 of my travels with The Clipperton Project around the Faroe Islands.

Today a few of us went walking from the tiny town of Sumba, through some fields, and around a stunning cliff face… and almost making it to Lopra before taking the bus back to Vágur!

But first a good morning selfie… or two!!

Faroes (442)Faroes (447)

Onward to Sumba…..

IMG_2690IMG_2695 bw

This guy was brilliant! He talked to us for a while about the sheep they keep here. Those little lambs next to him lost their mama :( but he is caring for them while they grow up. (photo pinched from Mhairi Law)

Mhairi LawIMG_2701IMG_2705IMG_2709 bwIMG_2710 bwIMG_2711IMG_2714IMG_2716

I’m not sure what this stuff was… but I could quite easily see it growing under the sea… perhaps encrusting the crown of a swimming mermaid…

IMG_2717IMG_2719IMG_2721IMG_2722IMG_2723 bwIMG_2724IMG_2726

Corseted fence?!

IMG_2727IMG_2730IMG_2732IMG_2733IMG_2734IMG_2736IMG_2737IMG_2743 bw

Sea pinks!!

IMG_2745

That little town you can see in the distance is Lopra… with the long winding road down… we didn’t quite make it all the way, and had to run down the grassy hills to catch the bus!!

IMG_2747IMG_2748IMG_2749IMG_2750IMG_2751IMG_2753IMG_2755IMG_2756

A beautiful spot to stop for lunch. I love sitting somewhere where I can dangle my feet off the edge.

IMG_2758IMG_2760IMG_2762IMG_2764IMG_2765IMG_2768IMG_2770IMG_2772IMG_2774IMG_2775IMG_2777 bwIMG_2778

We caught the bus in time! and headed back to Vágur.

Faroes (474)Faroes (475)Faroes (476)Faroes (477)

Night night Johanna.

See you again tomorrow :)

Stay tuned…

Chloe out.

Vágur & World War II

Day 10 of my travels with The Clipperton Project around the Faroe Islands.

Today we packed up our stuff in Tòrshavn and headed out on our journey to Vágur, where we would (eventually!) be meeting our boat.

Vágur is on the southernmost island of Suðuroy, which we travelled down to by ferry from Tòrshavn. The ride over was beautifully calm, and as we were on it for a couple of hours, I managed to get a good bit of journalling and design doodling done.

 

Unfortunately, when we arrived in Vágur, The Johanna wasn’t quite ready for us… so, it was another night in a hostel. It did give us some time to explore the town though…

Faroes (307)Faroes (309)

We came across this wonderful little museum which had a weird and wonderful collection of items and photographs from Vágur during World War II.

The Faroe Islands, Faroese ships and Faroese crew were of vast importance to Great Britain during World War II (1940-1945). Most of the British ships were in the early years of the war rebuilt to warships and for the same reason there were few British fishing vessels in operation. The demand for fish in Britain was large, and here the Faroese ships and crews came to play an important role.

Each week Faroese ships transported 100s of tonnes of fish to the British market. The fish was transported from Iceland and the Faroe Islands to Britain, mostly to harbourd in the north of Britain. All in all Faroese ships made 2.354 trip to Britain with 152.000 tonnes of fish to a value of 198 million Danish kroners.

The voyages through the battle zones in the North Atlantic did though have their high prize. During the years of World War II 205 Faroese men were casualties of war acts on the sea and 39 ships were lost. Of these 9 ships were from Vágur, of which 4 were lost with all hands. 27 men lost their lives with these ships, 14 from Vágur.

Faroes (311)Faroes (312)

Sadly there wasn’t much information about these, but I loved these photographs of a Scottish regiment that stayed here during World War II.

Faroes (313)Faroes (314)Faroes (315)

These model boats were all made by the curator of the museum, Poul Niclassen, who spent years crafting these vessels that from Vágur that were used in the war, in his little home workshop.

Faroes (316)Faroes (317)Faroes (318)Faroes (319)Faroes (320)Faroes (321)Faroes (324)Faroes (325)

After the museum we wandered through the town a little more.

Faroes (326)Faroes (327)Faroes (330)Faroes (331)Faroes (332)Faroes (333)

Yup! that is a dried up fish head lying in the port!

Faroes (335)

Dad! this sea mine photo is for you!!

Faroes (336)Faroes (339)Faroes (340)

Planning our route with the Johanna! in our cosy little hostel.

Luli Noriega Pons

This sock was knitted by Lynne Reed on her travels around the Faroes!! photo by Nils Aksnes.

Nils Aksnes (Lynne Sock)

 

More to come soon!!

Stay tuned!

Chloe out.

 

The Nordic House & a wander around Tòrshavn

Day 8 of my travels with The Clipperton Project around the Faroe Islands.

Today we were still in Tòrshavn and my day was a bit annoying.

I woke up in a bad mood for no apparent reason, and it got worse as I messed up most of morning wandering to and from laundry services trying to acquire clean clothes!! A complete waste of a morning… but I made up for it.

I cheered myself up by wandering over to Norðurlandahúsið í Føroyum or The Nordic House… after I had finally washed my clothes!!!

The Nordic House was basically a culture venue, built using traditional Nordic design with a modern spin. It was beautiful. And at the moment housed a really interesting art exhibition.

The Summer Exhibition NÚ/NOW 3 June – 21 August
The Summer Exhibition 2016 lets young Faroese artists born after 1980 take centre stage. We showcase works by 26 young talented artists, each with their own approach to visual arts.

Faroes (220)Faroes (221)Faroes (222)Faroes (223)Faroes (224)Faroes (225)Faroes (226)Faroes (227)Faroes (228)Faroes (230)Faroes (231)Faroes (232)Faroes (233)Faroes (234)Faroes (235)Faroes (238)Faroes (239)Faroes (240)Faroes (241)

I then wandered around the city for a little bit, doing a bit of shopping, and just seeing what I could see :)

Faroes (244)Faroes (254)Faroes (256)Faroes (257)Faroes (258)

No. I did not draw this. Just was highly amused as I walked past!

Faroes (268)Faroes (269)Faroes (270)Faroes (271)Faroes (273)

The Westward Ho.

Faroes (277)IMG_2370IMG_2372

Surprise sculpture!!!

IMG_2376IMG_2377IMG_2378

Torshavn (8)Torshavn (9)Torshavn (10)Torshavn (12)

I then settled into this beach to draw and gather up materials to make jewellery with.

Faroes (265)Faroes (266)IMG_2380IMG_2381

A bad start to my day turned beautiful with art and the sea shore.

More to come soon…

Chloe out.

Travelling to Mykines and my first puffin sighting!

Day 4 of my trip around The Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Today we are travelling from Tórshavn to Mykines.

Mykines is the westernmost island in the Faroes, and has a permanent all year round population of 11 people, with about 40 houses, most of which are only used in the summer season. Most excitingly however, are the puffins! The island is one of only two remaining that is home to a colony of nesting puffins, as well as countless other seabirds, including gannets, guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars, etc. etc.

It’s also a place where I learnt a great piece of mythology…

Tórur Rami intended to conquer Mykines and all of its wealth. He therefore went towards Mykines and went ashore at Borgaragjógv, eastwards of Mykines and walked westwards towards the village. Óli Rami then saw Tórur, heading towards him above the village and flew west towards what soon would be the Holm and which at that time was a part of Mykines. In an attempt to be safe, Óli asked for the Holm to be an island and so it became. But that fact was not enough to stop Tórur, who just jumped across Holm Gjogv. Now the to giants began to fight and the fight was very violent and took place at a place, which now is called “í Traðki”. Óli got the upper hand and was close to kill Tórur. But Tórur now asked for mercy and promised Óli three gifts, which should come to Mykines every year, if Óli would spare his life.
The gifts were a whale, which every year should strand at Hválagjógv, a piece of timber, which should strand at Viðarhelli and a special bird, the gannet, which should settle down at the Holm. But there was one condition; none of these gifts should ever be sneered at. If the Mykines people did so, the gifts would disappear. Óli accepted the conditions and spared Tórur’s life.
They so agreed and both settled down on Mykines and are said to both be buried on Mykines close to where the Memorial now is standing.
But the story continues. The people of Mykines criticized the gifts. They were unsatisfied with the whale, which had only one eye and which gave them a bad stomach. And also the timber wasn’t good enough, it was awry. From then on neither a whale nor a piece of timber came ashore. But with this experience in mind, no citizen from Mykines dares criticize the gannet, as they say, “Súlan er goð”, the gannet is just fine.

(source)

So, that explains the birdlife!!!

 

After a lazy start to our morning, we headed out of Tórshavn on a bus to Søvagur to catch the ferry over to Mykines.

IMG_2065

Søvagur was a pretty little town, with a beautiful harbour… with plenty of rusty metal inspiration for me to photograph!

IMG_2047 bwIMG_2049IMG_2051IMG_2053IMG_2054IMG_2060IMG_2061 BWIMG_2062IMG_2063IMG_2064

Boobs… hmhm, okay immature… shush!!!Faroes (52)

All aboard the ferry we go!! It was a lovely ride over, pretty smooth, and wonderfully sunny for most of the way. Our first taste at being out on the water…

IMG_2070

Panoramas pinched from Naomi J. FalkNaomi J Falk (1)Naomi J Falk (2)IMG_2087Faroes (71)IMG_2082IMG_2093IMG_2084IMG_2079IMG_2077IMG_2090Faroes (66)Faroes (67)IMG_2091IMG_2092

And into the harbour we go!

Faroes (75)IMG_2355

Although I took this photo later on when I went for my walk, I include it now because I want to show you the harbour contraption they had going on. Like many of the islands, Mykines is surrounded by cliff faces… so how does one get a boat/heavy luggage up and down the cliffs? build a pulley system on tracks to pull it up and down! Brilliant. I include this mostly for my Dad as it’s the kind of clever and simple mechanism he’d like… so, if you’re reading this, you big weirdo, enjoy!!

IMG_2144

 

After setting ourselves up in the yellow house, and having a little dinner, I went for a wee walk around the town, and then down to the harbour to see what I could see.

IMG_2145 bwIMG_2146IMG_2147IMG_2148IMG_2149IMG_2151IMG_2152IMG_2155IMG_2098IMG_2099IMG_2101Faroes (76)Faroes (77)Faroes (78)IMG_2102IMG_2105IMG_2113IMG_2126IMG_2131IMG_2138

My first puffin sighting!!! And many more to come tomorrow…

Mykines was a big highlight in my trip.

Stay tuned…

Chloe out.

Edward Fuglø

In my last post I added a picture of some postcards I had bought by Edward Fuglø at the Faroese Art Museum, so, here is the post with more images of his art that I talked about!!

3484220_orig

Unfortunately for me, and rather obviously, all the information I can find about him is in Faroese… which doesn’t translate online. So, all I know about him is that his jumper is funky, and I really like his artwork!

I’ll just have to let the work speak for itself…

7665169_orig2277895_orig7304356_orig1294976_orig6581732_orig9534546_orig3749155_orig

Beautiful.

3747616_orig

He also illustrated a beautiful rendition of The Seal Woman story, which I now own a copy of :) More to come soon on this tail tale…

stamps-selkie

Chloe out.

Listasavn Føroya -The Faroe Islands Art Museum in Tòrshavn

Day 3 of my journey around The Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Today was a Sunday. Sunday in Tòrshavn means that basically everything was closed, including all the buses! So, we had a rather lazy start to the day… a wee lie in, and milling around internet researching, and munching on cookies!!

Around lunchtime we headed out to the Listasavn Føroya (after a quick detour from the Nordic House, which was shut… fret not! I got to it later!!) which is the national art gallery in the Faroe’s, and one of the only things open!!!

Fine arts started relatively late within Faroese culture, with crafts and handmade items being favoured to occupy the makers’ hands. Painting, drawing, sculpture, etc. were overlooked until around 1800, but most art from earlier on, hasn’t always survived. The Faroese Art Society, who run this museum, now endeavour to preserve and promote all the fine arts that the Faroe Islands have to offer!

I wasn’t allowed to take my camera in, but I sneaked a few photos on my iPod… shh!!!

Faroes (19)Faroes (20)Faroes (21)

This room/installation was amazing, and my photos don’t really do it justice! The floor and ceiling was mirrored, and the walls were lined with colourful blue toned stained glass. The mirrors gave the feeling of stepping into infinity, a reoccurring figure amongst the waves. It was beautiful.

Faroes (22)Faroes (24)Faroes (26)Faroes (27)Faroes (28)Faroes (807)

I’m going to do another post about these birds in suits as I loved Edward Fuglø’s work, and naturally had to buy these postcards for my art wall!

Faroes (805)

Outside the gallery were bronze sculptures (by Hans Pauli Olsen who I’ll blog about later when we get to the selkie statue!), and it was surrounded by a stunning wooded parkland, which I wandered around getting lost with the trolls and hidden people…

IMG_2005IMG_2006IMG_2007IMG_2008

I think this one is my favourite. It speaks to me of an elemental soul escaping, or perhaps being grounded. It’s beautiful, and the texture is stunning.

IMG_2009IMG_2010IMG_2011 bwIMG_2012IMG_2013IMG_2033IMG_2032IMG_2031IMG_2030Faroes (39)Faroes (38)IMG_2024IMG_2025IMG_2014IMG_2016IMG_2021Faroes (31)IMG_2004Faroes (51)

Troll?

IMG_2027IMG_2028IMG_2035IMG_2037IMG_2038IMG_2040IMG_2042IMG_2043

I was feeling a little inspired! and doodled a few things in my sketchbook, which I’ll share in some later posts with lots of hand-journalled images!!
I enjoyed wandering around this woodland. It was incredibly peaceful… Relaxing… inspiring… peaceful.
Stay tuned for more…!
Chloe out.

Arrival in The Faroe Islands and a Cultural Night in Tòrshavn

Day 1 of my trip with The Clipperton Project to the Faroe Islands.

Today I travelled from Edinburgh to Vagar to Tòrshavn.

Faroes (772)

I arrived in on June 3rd to Vagar airport, and we travelled from the airport to the island of Stremoy to the town of Tòrshavn, where we’re staying for the next couple of days.

I met 3 of our lovely group at the airport, and the rest shortly after we arrived in our accommodation. There was a group of 13 of us. We were a great mixed group, who I slowly tried to get to know over the following weeks… but at this point I’d sussed out that they were all so lovely! and were studying, and trying to achieve really interesting projects. I couldn’t wait to find out more!

This was the view from our window on the hill of Tòrshavn…

Faroes (754)

And a cute wee lenticular cloud to greet us too!!

IMG_1899IMG_1901

 

We were lucky enough to coincide our first night with the Tòrshavn “Cultural Evening” which was a lovely night, spread across the whole town with different  events, pop up shops, talks, live music, dancing, food, etc. etc.

IMG_1913IMG_1915IMG_1916

IMG_1917

We all wandered around, enjoying some pancakes, and free marshmallows. Taking in all the different shops, and art works.

We didn’t quite get round everything, as it was all so spread out, and the little group I was with mostly stayed to enjoy the live music. There are some stunningly talented metal musicians on the Faroe Islands!!

IMG_1909Screenshot (1)Screenshot (2)

Our merry crew enjoying some free beer :)

IMG_1911

But we did manage to see some traditional skills from viking-style people, including this woman casting tin into little pendants. I don’t know the technical terms for each of these tools, but she basically heated up the ingots of tin in the metal (I assume iron) crucible in the fire pit, and once molten, poured it in the stone mould. A beautifully simple way of casting metal jewellery, and I’m so glad this was the opening to my trip!

IMG_1903IMG_1904IMG_1905IMG_1906IMG_1907

We also caught this traditional chain dance (will talk more about this later on! stay tuned!) going on in the local music store.

 

Wonderful first day!

Chloe out.