Marshy hill walk in Mykines & an open mic night in Tòrshavn

Day 6 of my journey around The Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Yesterday we walked out along the coast to the puffin colonies in the glorious sunshine, and today we walked up a marshy hill in the drizzingly rain. It was still beautiful… just a different kind of beautiful!

A small group of us decided to explore the other side of the small island, and we wrapped ourselves in waterproofs to tackle the wet weather on our walk up the boggy hills on the other side of the small town.

IMG_2320

That green ridge was where we walked along the previous day to see the puffins. It looks like a long way from here!! You can just see the lighthouse poking out from the top.

IMG_2321

I’m actually wearing a pink waterproof jacket… it was that cold!!! Yes, mum, thanks for the jacket, I do appreciate it :P

Faroes (156)IMG_2323IMG_2324IMG_2325IMG_2326 bwIMG_2327 bwIMG_2328 bwIMG_2329 bwIMG_2330IMG_2331IMG_2332IMG_2333IMG_2334IMG_2335IMG_2336IMG_2337IMG_2338IMG_2340 bw

A place that is so natural is still shaped by human hands. This, in a very beautiful way, but even here we are leaving our mark.

IMG_2341 bwIMG_2344

After this cold, windy, wet walk we popped into the little cafe opposite the yellow house for a hot chocolate! and I doodled in my journal for a bit.

Just before heading back to the ferry, I went for one last wander…

IMG_2346IMG_2347Faroes (169)IMG_2349IMG_2350IMG_2359 bw

I include this dead bird picture, because I found it interesting. This is the third dead bird i came across like this. All that remains are the wings, and a little connection of bone in he middle. It suggests to me that the middle of the bird is the only edible part, or the part that is easily accessed by scavenging animals. However, to me, the interesting part is that I can see where fallen fairy or fallen angel stories could arise from, if all that is left of them are dead wings, lying abandoned and broken on the ground without their body counterparts.

IMG_2361IMG_2362Faroes (167)IMG_2364

The ferry back was cold and windy!!!

Faroes (175)

A small group of us broke off from the main, to head back to Tòrshavn for an open mic night, featuring Josè ( a member of our merry crew!) who was invited to play by the organiser.

Faroes (181)

José is a fantastic musician, and if you follow this link, you can nosey at his beautiful work.

 

After the bars closed we headed over to the stone steps were a small group of people were hanging out playing guitar, and we talked and enjoyed the music they were playing until the almost dark hours of the morning. It was a wonderful night, full of great music and lots of fun :)

Faroes (190)

Stay tuned for more…

Chloe out.

Advertisements

Puffins! Puffins!! Puffins!!!

Day 5 on the Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Today we saw LOTS of puffins!!

We walked along a rather steep and gravely up and down path along the cliffs of Mykines, stopping to catch our breath and take photographs of the stunning views from every angle.

IMG_2156IMG_2159IMG_2161IMG_2162

Photo below pinched from Mhairi Law.Mhairi Law (1)Faroes (103)IMG_2163IMG_2164IMG_2165IMG_2166IMG_2168IMG_2170Faroes (107)IMG_2171Faroes (111)IMG_2178IMG_2179 bwIMG_2180 bwIMG_2181

PUFFINS!!!!!IMG_2193IMG_2194IMG_2195IMG_2197IMG_2198Faroes (93)

This bridge was amazing! Standing look over the perilous edge, down at the crashing blue waters and colonies of nesting seagulls was quite magnificent. Then facing the bridge, to go through, you could see the unique architecture of the metal rods making a beautiful crisscrossing pattern, and hitting the floorboards with crossed shadows. A simple means to cross the sea below, yet quite beautiful in it’s harshness against the landscape.

IMG_2201Faroes (98)IMG_2200 bwIMG_2202IMG_2209IMG_2205

All those little dots you can see are puffins!!!IMG_2208IMG_2212IMG_2214IMG_2217 bwIMG_2221 bw

This is the top! I made it!!!

It looks cold, but it was stunningly warm… to the extent that I took off most of my layers to enjoy the warmth!! and the foggy clouds that shrouded my walkway to the top just added to the mystery of the little isle.

IMG_2221IMG_2223IMG_2225IMG_2235IMG_2238IMG_2239

Returning back down from the edge where the lighthouse signalled, I started to see black and white zooming birds with flashes of colour leading their ways….. I took a lot longer to get back than I did to get there as I kept stopping to watch these adorable little guys flying overhead! I also sat among their little burrowed nests for about an hour just watching them dive in and out and go about their mating season.

IMG_2249IMG_2250IMG_2252IMG_2253IMG_2254IMG_2255

We were so close!… something that stirred a sense of excitement in me, yet upon reflection is not a good thing. I’m all for appreciating nature in the natural world… but when you have ramblers, including myself, walking over a path just footsteps away from puffin nests, you gotta ask yourself if it’s okay. No, is the simple answer. We were disturbing these little guys during mating season, and there was nothing to stop us doing so. I don’t think natural spaces should be fenced off and shut peered at through a closed door… but if we can’t find a way to protect the natural spaces we have left (from idiots, as well as well-meaning people like myself and our group, who aren’t out to harm the puffins intentionally, merely appreciate them in their natural setting, but at the same time are unwillingly causing the animals an amount of distress and disturbance), then we will no longer have any true natural spaces to enjoy.

IMG_2257IMG_2266IMG_2268IMG_2271IMG_2273Faroes (113)

I walked away thinking about that.

It was hard to focus on environmental issues with such distracting beauty surrounding me…

IMG_2275IMG_2278IMG_2279IMG_2280IMG_2281 bwIMG_2285IMG_2286 bwIMG_2291 bwIMG_2306IMG_2307IMG_2308

A wee puffin to see me off as I walked back up the steepest steps of the trail.

IMG_2301IMG_2303IMG_2309

I wasn’t quite ready to head back down to the yellow house yet, so I walked along a bit of ridge, intending to sit and doodle in my sketchbook for a while, but as I peered down over the cliff… look who distracted me!!

IMG_2313IMG_2315IMG_2316

Today was pretty awesome… I went from never having seen a puffin to seeing thousands! and it was just brilliant!!

A little relaxing in the yellow house after an exciting puffin filled day! (photo pinched from Tracey M Benson).Tracey M Benson

 

Stay tuned for more…
Chloe out.

Travelling to Mykines and my first puffin sighting!

Day 4 of my trip around The Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Today we are travelling from Tórshavn to Mykines.

Mykines is the westernmost island in the Faroes, and has a permanent all year round population of 11 people, with about 40 houses, most of which are only used in the summer season. Most excitingly however, are the puffins! The island is one of only two remaining that is home to a colony of nesting puffins, as well as countless other seabirds, including gannets, guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars, etc. etc.

It’s also a place where I learnt a great piece of mythology…

Tórur Rami intended to conquer Mykines and all of its wealth. He therefore went towards Mykines and went ashore at Borgaragjógv, eastwards of Mykines and walked westwards towards the village. Óli Rami then saw Tórur, heading towards him above the village and flew west towards what soon would be the Holm and which at that time was a part of Mykines. In an attempt to be safe, Óli asked for the Holm to be an island and so it became. But that fact was not enough to stop Tórur, who just jumped across Holm Gjogv. Now the to giants began to fight and the fight was very violent and took place at a place, which now is called “í Traðki”. Óli got the upper hand and was close to kill Tórur. But Tórur now asked for mercy and promised Óli three gifts, which should come to Mykines every year, if Óli would spare his life.
The gifts were a whale, which every year should strand at Hválagjógv, a piece of timber, which should strand at Viðarhelli and a special bird, the gannet, which should settle down at the Holm. But there was one condition; none of these gifts should ever be sneered at. If the Mykines people did so, the gifts would disappear. Óli accepted the conditions and spared Tórur’s life.
They so agreed and both settled down on Mykines and are said to both be buried on Mykines close to where the Memorial now is standing.
But the story continues. The people of Mykines criticized the gifts. They were unsatisfied with the whale, which had only one eye and which gave them a bad stomach. And also the timber wasn’t good enough, it was awry. From then on neither a whale nor a piece of timber came ashore. But with this experience in mind, no citizen from Mykines dares criticize the gannet, as they say, “Súlan er goð”, the gannet is just fine.

(source)

So, that explains the birdlife!!!

 

After a lazy start to our morning, we headed out of Tórshavn on a bus to Søvagur to catch the ferry over to Mykines.

IMG_2065

Søvagur was a pretty little town, with a beautiful harbour… with plenty of rusty metal inspiration for me to photograph!

IMG_2047 bwIMG_2049IMG_2051IMG_2053IMG_2054IMG_2060IMG_2061 BWIMG_2062IMG_2063IMG_2064

Boobs… hmhm, okay immature… shush!!!Faroes (52)

All aboard the ferry we go!! It was a lovely ride over, pretty smooth, and wonderfully sunny for most of the way. Our first taste at being out on the water…

IMG_2070

Panoramas pinched from Naomi J. FalkNaomi J Falk (1)Naomi J Falk (2)IMG_2087Faroes (71)IMG_2082IMG_2093IMG_2084IMG_2079IMG_2077IMG_2090Faroes (66)Faroes (67)IMG_2091IMG_2092

And into the harbour we go!

Faroes (75)IMG_2355

Although I took this photo later on when I went for my walk, I include it now because I want to show you the harbour contraption they had going on. Like many of the islands, Mykines is surrounded by cliff faces… so how does one get a boat/heavy luggage up and down the cliffs? build a pulley system on tracks to pull it up and down! Brilliant. I include this mostly for my Dad as it’s the kind of clever and simple mechanism he’d like… so, if you’re reading this, you big weirdo, enjoy!!

IMG_2144

 

After setting ourselves up in the yellow house, and having a little dinner, I went for a wee walk around the town, and then down to the harbour to see what I could see.

IMG_2145 bwIMG_2146IMG_2147IMG_2148IMG_2149IMG_2151IMG_2152IMG_2155IMG_2098IMG_2099IMG_2101Faroes (76)Faroes (77)Faroes (78)IMG_2102IMG_2105IMG_2113IMG_2126IMG_2131IMG_2138

My first puffin sighting!!! And many more to come tomorrow…

Mykines was a big highlight in my trip.

Stay tuned…

Chloe out.

Edward Fuglø

In my last post I added a picture of some postcards I had bought by Edward Fuglø at the Faroese Art Museum, so, here is the post with more images of his art that I talked about!!

3484220_orig

Unfortunately for me, and rather obviously, all the information I can find about him is in Faroese… which doesn’t translate online. So, all I know about him is that his jumper is funky, and I really like his artwork!

I’ll just have to let the work speak for itself…

7665169_orig2277895_orig7304356_orig1294976_orig6581732_orig9534546_orig3749155_orig

Beautiful.

3747616_orig

He also illustrated a beautiful rendition of The Seal Woman story, which I now own a copy of :) More to come soon on this tail tale…

stamps-selkie

Chloe out.

Listasavn Føroya -The Faroe Islands Art Museum in Tòrshavn

Day 3 of my journey around The Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Today was a Sunday. Sunday in Tòrshavn means that basically everything was closed, including all the buses! So, we had a rather lazy start to the day… a wee lie in, and milling around internet researching, and munching on cookies!!

Around lunchtime we headed out to the Listasavn Føroya (after a quick detour from the Nordic House, which was shut… fret not! I got to it later!!) which is the national art gallery in the Faroe’s, and one of the only things open!!!

Fine arts started relatively late within Faroese culture, with crafts and handmade items being favoured to occupy the makers’ hands. Painting, drawing, sculpture, etc. were overlooked until around 1800, but most art from earlier on, hasn’t always survived. The Faroese Art Society, who run this museum, now endeavour to preserve and promote all the fine arts that the Faroe Islands have to offer!

I wasn’t allowed to take my camera in, but I sneaked a few photos on my iPod… shh!!!

Faroes (19)Faroes (20)Faroes (21)

This room/installation was amazing, and my photos don’t really do it justice! The floor and ceiling was mirrored, and the walls were lined with colourful blue toned stained glass. The mirrors gave the feeling of stepping into infinity, a reoccurring figure amongst the waves. It was beautiful.

Faroes (22)Faroes (24)Faroes (26)Faroes (27)Faroes (28)Faroes (807)

I’m going to do another post about these birds in suits as I loved Edward Fuglø’s work, and naturally had to buy these postcards for my art wall!

Faroes (805)

Outside the gallery were bronze sculptures (by Hans Pauli Olsen who I’ll blog about later when we get to the selkie statue!), and it was surrounded by a stunning wooded parkland, which I wandered around getting lost with the trolls and hidden people…

IMG_2005IMG_2006IMG_2007IMG_2008

I think this one is my favourite. It speaks to me of an elemental soul escaping, or perhaps being grounded. It’s beautiful, and the texture is stunning.

IMG_2009IMG_2010IMG_2011 bwIMG_2012IMG_2013IMG_2033IMG_2032IMG_2031IMG_2030Faroes (39)Faroes (38)IMG_2024IMG_2025IMG_2014IMG_2016IMG_2021Faroes (31)IMG_2004Faroes (51)

Troll?

IMG_2027IMG_2028IMG_2035IMG_2037IMG_2038IMG_2040IMG_2042IMG_2043

I was feeling a little inspired! and doodled a few things in my sketchbook, which I’ll share in some later posts with lots of hand-journalled images!!
I enjoyed wandering around this woodland. It was incredibly peaceful… Relaxing… inspiring… peaceful.
Stay tuned for more…!
Chloe out.

From Tòrshavn to Kirkjubøur

Day 2 of my residency in The Faroe Islands with The Clipperton Project.

Today we day-tripped to the tiny town of Kirkjubøur.

But first, a wee group of us took the scenic route from our house up on the hill of Tòrshavn down to the bus terminal.

IMG_1922 bwIMG_1923IMG_1925IMG_1926 bwIMG_1927IMG_1928IMG_1929IMG_1931IMG_1934IMG_1935IMG_1936IMG_1940IMG_1941IMG_1942

Next stop Kirkjubøur.

IMG_1943IMG_1946

It was a beautiful walk down the road from the bus stop to the town.IMG_1948IMG_1949IMG_1957Photo below pinched from Lynne Reed.Lynne Reed (1)

A beautiful little coastal town, with about 80 inhabitants, and featuring the oldest church on the island. It’s thought that this town originally featured a viking settlement, but evidence of this as minimal as it was diminished when the Catholic movement arrived on the Faroes. The original Magnus Cathedral church in this town dates back to 1111 and the slightly newer building Olav Church, dates back to 1290.

IMG_1999IMG_1973IMG_1974IMG_1975IMG_1998IMG_1997 BWIMG_1996 bw

There was also a little traditional style stone building with a grass sown roof, out on the coastal edge, just away from the cemetery, which was oddly quite far away from the two churches.

IMG_1951IMG_1953IMG_1954IMG_1956 bwPhoto below pinched from Lea Kannar.Lea Kannar (1)IMG_1967IMG_1971IMG_1955IMG_1958IMG_1961IMG_1965IMG_1972 bw

And in the town was a traditional style Faroese house, which I later discovered was a “castle”. It’s called Kirkjubøargarður and was owned by one of the oldest families on the island, Patursson. It was beautiful inside and out.

IMG_2000IMG_1978IMG_1979IMG_1980IMG_1981IMG_1982IMG_1991IMG_1993IMG_1990IMG_1988IMG_1984IMG_1985IMG_1986IMG_1987

Pretty little town and such stunning sunshine! Another perfect day…

IMG_2001Faroes (770)

… and we even had a pretty pony join us for lunch!!

Faroes (767)Faroes (765)

Stay tuned for more!

Chloe out.

Arrival in The Faroe Islands and a Cultural Night in Tòrshavn

Day 1 of my trip with The Clipperton Project to the Faroe Islands.

Today I travelled from Edinburgh to Vagar to Tòrshavn.

Faroes (772)

I arrived in on June 3rd to Vagar airport, and we travelled from the airport to the island of Stremoy to the town of Tòrshavn, where we’re staying for the next couple of days.

I met 3 of our lovely group at the airport, and the rest shortly after we arrived in our accommodation. There was a group of 13 of us. We were a great mixed group, who I slowly tried to get to know over the following weeks… but at this point I’d sussed out that they were all so lovely! and were studying, and trying to achieve really interesting projects. I couldn’t wait to find out more!

This was the view from our window on the hill of Tòrshavn…

Faroes (754)

And a cute wee lenticular cloud to greet us too!!

IMG_1899IMG_1901

 

We were lucky enough to coincide our first night with the Tòrshavn “Cultural Evening” which was a lovely night, spread across the whole town with different  events, pop up shops, talks, live music, dancing, food, etc. etc.

IMG_1913IMG_1915IMG_1916

IMG_1917

We all wandered around, enjoying some pancakes, and free marshmallows. Taking in all the different shops, and art works.

We didn’t quite get round everything, as it was all so spread out, and the little group I was with mostly stayed to enjoy the live music. There are some stunningly talented metal musicians on the Faroe Islands!!

IMG_1909Screenshot (1)Screenshot (2)

Our merry crew enjoying some free beer :)

IMG_1911

But we did manage to see some traditional skills from viking-style people, including this woman casting tin into little pendants. I don’t know the technical terms for each of these tools, but she basically heated up the ingots of tin in the metal (I assume iron) crucible in the fire pit, and once molten, poured it in the stone mould. A beautifully simple way of casting metal jewellery, and I’m so glad this was the opening to my trip!

IMG_1903IMG_1904IMG_1905IMG_1906IMG_1907

We also caught this traditional chain dance (will talk more about this later on! stay tuned!) going on in the local music store.

 

Wonderful first day!

Chloe out.